Political consumption of fashion: Buycott and slow fashion in Instagram
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Published
25-06-2019
Elena Bellido-Pérez
Abstract
The consumer's environmental consciousness is gaining a more prominent role in the market, so many companies have been founded or modified according to ecological values, as those that support the slow fashion movement, opposite to the industrialized fashion. These companies get a buycott as a reward: an activist consumption based on the firm's philosophy. Since the buycott finds a thriving area of expansion in social media sites through a statement of intentions, the aim of the current study is to analyse the convergence between these two movements in Instagram, a key platform for fashion influencers.
How to Cite
Bellido-Pérez, E. (2019). Political consumption of fashion: Buycott and slow fashion in Instagram. ZER - Journal of Communication Studies, 24(46). https://doi.org/10.1387/zer.20551
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References
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Agrawal, R. y Gupta, S (2018). Consuming Responsibly: Exploring Environmentally Responsible Consumption Behaviors. Journal of Global Marketing, 31(4), 231-245.
Azevedo, S., Miguel, R. y Mesquita, P. (2019). Sustainability of textile and fashion supply chain: Case study approach. En: G. Montagna y C. Carvalho, Textiles, Identity and Innovation. Design Future (pp. 339-347). Leiden: Taylor and Francis.
Bolton, R.N., Parasuraman, A., Hoefnagels, A., Migchels, N., Kabadayi, S., Gruber, T., Komarova, Y. y Solnet, D. (2013). Understanding Generation Y and their use of social media: a review and research agenda. Journal of Service Management, 24(3), 245-267. doi: 10.1108/09564231311326987.
Bove, L.L., Nagpal, A. y Dorsett, A.D.S. (2009). Exploring the determinants of the frugal shopper. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 16(4), 291–297. doi: 10.1016/j.jretconser.2009.02.004
Cheng, P., Fu, Y. y Lay, K.K. (2018). Supply Chain Risk Management in the Apparel Industry. Londres: Routledge.
Chow, P.S. y Li, C.K.Y. (2017). Towards Closed-Loop Fashion Supply Chains—Reflections from Retailer-Facilitated Used Apparel Collection Programs. En: P.S. Chow, C.H. Chiu, A.C.Y., Yip y A.K.Y. Tang, Contemporary Case Studies on Fashion Production, Marketing and Operations (pp. 219-239). Singapur: Springer.
Christopher, M., Lowson, R. y Peck, H. (2004). Creating agile supply chains in the fashion industry. International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 32(8), 50-61.
Cuadras Morató, X. y Raya, J. M. (2014). Boycott or buycott?: Internal politics and consumer choices. Recuperado de: https://econ-papers.upf.edu/ca/paper.php?id=1438 [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
De Veriman, M.; Cauberghe, V. y Hudders, L. (2017). Marketing through Instagram influencers: the impact of number of followers and product divergence on brand attitude. International Journal of Advertising, 36(5), 798–828. doi:10.1080/02650487.2017.1348035
De Vicente Bittar, A. (2018).Selling remanufactured products: Does consumer environmental consciousness matter? Journal of Cleaner Production, 181, 527-536. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.01.255
Endres, K. y Panagopoulos, C. (2017). Boycotts, buycotts, and political consumerism in America. Research and Politics, 1-9. Doi: 10.1177/2053168017738632
Fletcher, K. (2007). Slow fashion. The Ecologist (1 de junio de 2007). Recuperado de https://theecologist.org/2007/jun/01/slow-fashion [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Fletcher, K. (2010) Slow Fashion: An Invitation for Systems Change, Fashion Practice, 2(2), 259-265. doi: 10.2752/175693810X12774625387594
Fardouly, J., Willburger, B. K., y Vartanian, L. R. (2018). Instagram use and young women's body image concerns and self-objectification: Testing mediational pathways. New Media & Society, 20(4), 1380–1395. doi: 10.1177/1461444817694499
Farrás Pérez, L. (2018). La industria de la moda empieza a cambiar sus patrones. La Vanguardia (16 de septiembre de 2018). Recuperado de: https://www.lavanguardia.com/natural/tu-huella/20180916/451785815200/industria-moda-contaminacion-marcas.html [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Fatás, M. (2018). Cinco años del desastre de Rana Plaza. El País (24 de abril de 2018). Recuperado de: https://elpais.com/elpais/2018/04/23/alterconsumismo/1524490982_683391.html [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Flotats, S. (2016). Reflexionando sobre 'join life', la colección sostenible de zara. It Fashion (4 de octubre de 2016). Recuperado de: http://www.itfashion.com/moda/eco-eco/reflexionando-sobre-join-life-la-coleccion-sostenible-de-zara/ [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Friedman, M. (1996). A Positive Approach to Organized Consumer Action: The "Buycott" as Alternative to the Boycott. Journal of Consumer Policy, 19, 439-451.
García Galera, C.; Fernández Muñoz, C. y del Olmo Barbero, J. (2018). La comunicación del Tercer Sector y el compromiso de los jóvenes en la era digital. Zer, 23(44), 155-174. https://doi.org/10.1387/zer.19164
Gerehou, M. (2016). Qué han hecho Inditex, El Corte Inglés y Cortefiel tras las denuncias de abusos en fábricas de Asia. El diario (18 de febrero de 2018). Recuperado de: https://www.eldiario.es/economia/Inditex-Corte-Ingles-Cortefiel-Carrefour_0_480852401.html [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Golob, U., Podnar, K., Koklič, M.K. y Zabkar, V. (2018). The importance of corporate social responsibility for responsable consumption: Exploring moral motivations of consumers. Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management [en prensa].
Grunert, K.G., Sonntag, W.I., Glanz-Chanos, V. y Forum, S. (2018). Consumer interest in environmental impact, safety, health and animal welfare aspects of modern pig production: Results of a cross-national choice experiment. Meat Science, 137, 123-129. doi: 10.1016/j.meatsci.2017.11.022
Ha, Y.; Kwon, S.; Cha, M.y Joo, J. (2017). Fashion Conversation Data on Instagram. Recuperado de: https://arxiv.org/abs/1704.04137 [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018].
Hanna, E., Fettweis, X. y Hall, R. J. (2018). Brief communication: Recent changes in summer Greenland blocking captured by none of the CMIP5 models. The Cyrosphere, 12, 3287–3292. doi: 10.5194/tc-12-3287-2018
Hawkins, R.A. (2010). Boycotts, buycotts and consumer activism in a global context: An overview. Management & Organizational History, 5(2), 123-143. Doi: 10.1177/1744935910361644
Hierro, L. (2018). El mundo perdió 15,8 millones de hectáreas de bosque tropical en 2017: el doble del tamaño de Andalucía. El País (27 de junio de 2018). Recuperado de: https://elpais.com/elpais/2018/06/26/planeta_futuro/1530040354_449192.html [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Hoffmann, S.; Balderjahn, I.; Seegebarth, B. Mai, R. Peyer, M. (2018). Under Which Conditions Are Consumers Ready to Boycott or Buycott? The Roles of Hedonism and Simplicity. Ecological Economics, 147 (2018), 167–178. doi: 10.1016/j.ecolecon.2018.01.004
Ismail, A.R. y Spinelli, G. (2012). Effects of brand love, personality and image on word of mouth: The case of fashion brands among young consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 16(4), pp. 386-398. Doi: 10.1108/13612021211265791
Jung, S. y Jin, B. (2014). A theoretical investigation of slow fashion: sustainable future of the apparel industry. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38, 10–519. doi: 10.1111/ijcs.12127
Jung, S. y Jin, B. (2016). Sustainable Development of Slow Fashion Businesses: Customer Value Approach. Sustainability, 8(540), 1-15. doi: 10.3390/su8060540
Krippendorff, K. (2009). Metodología de análisis de contenido. Teoría y práctica. Barcelona: Paidós Comunicación.
Kriwy , P. y Mecking, R.A. (2011). Health and environmental consciousness, costs of behaviour and the purchase of organic food. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 36(1), 30-37. doi: 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2011.01004.x
Laufer, W.S. (2003). Social Accountability and Corporate Greenwashing. Journal of Business Ethics, 43, 253–261.
Manrai, A.K. (2018). New research on Environmentally Responsible Consumption Behavior and Green Business Strategies. Journal of Global Marketing, 31(4), 229-230.
Martínez García de Leazniz, P. Herrero Cresco, Á. y Gómez López, R. (2017). Customer responses to environmentally certified hotels: the moderating effect of environmental consciousness on the formation of behavioral intentions. Journal of Sustainable Tourism, 26(7), 1160-1177. doi: 10.1080/09669582.2017.1349775
Moda impacto positivo (s.f.). Directorio de moda sostenible. Moda impacto positivo. Recuperado de: https://modaimpactopositivo.com/slowfashion-marcas-complementos-ropa-ecologica-online/ [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Mills, J.S.; Musto, S.; Williams, L. y Tiggemann, M. (2018). "Selfie" harm: Effects on mood and body image in young women. Body Image, 27, 86-92. Doi: 10.1016/j.bodyim.2018.08.007
Morgan, L.R. y Birtwistle, G. (2009). An investigation of young fashion consumers' disposal habits. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 33(2), 190–198. doi: 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2009.00756.x
Pookulangara, S, y Shephard, A. (2013). Slow fashion movement: Understanding consumer perceptions —An exploratory study. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 20, 200-206. Doi: /10.1016/j.jretconser.2012.12.002
Ramos-Serrano, M. y Jiménez-Marín, G. (2014). Blogs y Moda: cuando los usuarios crean las tendencias. En: D. Fernández Quijada y M. Ramos-Serrano, Tecnologías de la persuasión: uso de las TIC en publicidad y relaciones públicas (pp. 131-143). Barcelona: UOC.
Ramos-Serrano, M. y Martínez-García, A. (2016). Personal style bloggers: the most popular visual composition principles and themes on Instagram. Observatorio (OBS*) Journal, 10(2), 89-109. Doi: 1646-5954/ERC123483/2016
SOMO (2011). Captured by Cotton. Exploited Dalit girls produce garments in India for European and US markets [online]. Recuperado de: https://www.somo.nl/captured-by-cotton/ [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Å tefko, R. y Steffek, V. (2018). Key Issues in Slow Fashion: Current Challenges and Future Perspectives. Sustainability, 10(2270), 1-11. doi: 10.3390/su10072270
Trischler, H. (2016). The Anthropocene: A Challenge for the History of Science, Technology, and the Environment. NTM International Journal of History and Ethics of Natural Sciences, Technology and Medicine, 24 (3), 309-335. doi: 10.1007/s00048-016-0146-3
Watson, M.Z. y Yan, R.N. (2013). An exploratory study of the decision processes of fast versus slow fashion consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 17(2),141-159. doi: 10.1108/JFMM-02-2011-0045
We Are Social (2018). Digital in 2018: World's Internet users pass the 4 billion mark. We Are Social (30 de enero de 2018). Recuperado de: https://wearesocial.com/blog/2018/01/global-digital-report-2018 [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
World Economic Forum –WEF- (2016). The New Plastics Economy Rethinking the future of plastics. Recuperado de: http://www3.weforum.org/docs/WEF_The_New_Plastics_Economy.pdf [consultado del 1 de noviembre de 2018].
Zalasiewicz, J. et al. (2017). The Working Group on the Anthropocene: Summary of evidence and interim recommendations. Anthropocene, 19, 55-60. doi: 10.1016/j.ancene.2017.09.001
Agrawal, R. y Gupta, S (2018). Consuming Responsibly: Exploring Environmentally Responsible Consumption Behaviors. Journal of Global Marketing, 31(4), 231-245.
Azevedo, S., Miguel, R. y Mesquita, P. (2019). Sustainability of textile and fashion supply chain: Case study approach. En: G. Montagna y C. Carvalho, Textiles, Identity and Innovation. Design Future (pp. 339-347). Leiden: Taylor and Francis.
Bolton, R.N., Parasuraman, A., Hoefnagels, A., Migchels, N., Kabadayi, S., Gruber, T., Komarova, Y. y Solnet, D. (2013). Understanding Generation Y and their use of social media: a review and research agenda. Journal of Service Management, 24(3), 245-267. doi: 10.1108/09564231311326987.
Bove, L.L., Nagpal, A. y Dorsett, A.D.S. (2009). Exploring the determinants of the frugal shopper. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 16(4), 291–297. doi: 10.1016/j.jretconser.2009.02.004
Cheng, P., Fu, Y. y Lay, K.K. (2018). Supply Chain Risk Management in the Apparel Industry. Londres: Routledge.
Chow, P.S. y Li, C.K.Y. (2017). Towards Closed-Loop Fashion Supply Chains—Reflections from Retailer-Facilitated Used Apparel Collection Programs. En: P.S. Chow, C.H. Chiu, A.C.Y., Yip y A.K.Y. Tang, Contemporary Case Studies on Fashion Production, Marketing and Operations (pp. 219-239). Singapur: Springer.
Christopher, M., Lowson, R. y Peck, H. (2004). Creating agile supply chains in the fashion industry. International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 32(8), 50-61.
Cuadras Morató, X. y Raya, J. M. (2014). Boycott or buycott?: Internal politics and consumer choices. Recuperado de: https://econ-papers.upf.edu/ca/paper.php?id=1438 [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
De Veriman, M.; Cauberghe, V. y Hudders, L. (2017). Marketing through Instagram influencers: the impact of number of followers and product divergence on brand attitude. International Journal of Advertising, 36(5), 798–828. doi:10.1080/02650487.2017.1348035
De Vicente Bittar, A. (2018).Selling remanufactured products: Does consumer environmental consciousness matter? Journal of Cleaner Production, 181, 527-536. doi: 10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.01.255
Endres, K. y Panagopoulos, C. (2017). Boycotts, buycotts, and political consumerism in America. Research and Politics, 1-9. Doi: 10.1177/2053168017738632
Fletcher, K. (2007). Slow fashion. The Ecologist (1 de junio de 2007). Recuperado de https://theecologist.org/2007/jun/01/slow-fashion [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Fletcher, K. (2010) Slow Fashion: An Invitation for Systems Change, Fashion Practice, 2(2), 259-265. doi: 10.2752/175693810X12774625387594
Fardouly, J., Willburger, B. K., y Vartanian, L. R. (2018). Instagram use and young women's body image concerns and self-objectification: Testing mediational pathways. New Media & Society, 20(4), 1380–1395. doi: 10.1177/1461444817694499
Farrás Pérez, L. (2018). La industria de la moda empieza a cambiar sus patrones. La Vanguardia (16 de septiembre de 2018). Recuperado de: https://www.lavanguardia.com/natural/tu-huella/20180916/451785815200/industria-moda-contaminacion-marcas.html [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Fatás, M. (2018). Cinco años del desastre de Rana Plaza. El País (24 de abril de 2018). Recuperado de: https://elpais.com/elpais/2018/04/23/alterconsumismo/1524490982_683391.html [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Flotats, S. (2016). Reflexionando sobre 'join life', la colección sostenible de zara. It Fashion (4 de octubre de 2016). Recuperado de: http://www.itfashion.com/moda/eco-eco/reflexionando-sobre-join-life-la-coleccion-sostenible-de-zara/ [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Friedman, M. (1996). A Positive Approach to Organized Consumer Action: The "Buycott" as Alternative to the Boycott. Journal of Consumer Policy, 19, 439-451.
García Galera, C.; Fernández Muñoz, C. y del Olmo Barbero, J. (2018). La comunicación del Tercer Sector y el compromiso de los jóvenes en la era digital. Zer, 23(44), 155-174. https://doi.org/10.1387/zer.19164
Gerehou, M. (2016). Qué han hecho Inditex, El Corte Inglés y Cortefiel tras las denuncias de abusos en fábricas de Asia. El diario (18 de febrero de 2018). Recuperado de: https://www.eldiario.es/economia/Inditex-Corte-Ingles-Cortefiel-Carrefour_0_480852401.html [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Golob, U., Podnar, K., Koklič, M.K. y Zabkar, V. (2018). The importance of corporate social responsibility for responsable consumption: Exploring moral motivations of consumers. Corporate Social Responsibility and Environmental Management [en prensa].
Grunert, K.G., Sonntag, W.I., Glanz-Chanos, V. y Forum, S. (2018). Consumer interest in environmental impact, safety, health and animal welfare aspects of modern pig production: Results of a cross-national choice experiment. Meat Science, 137, 123-129. doi: 10.1016/j.meatsci.2017.11.022
Ha, Y.; Kwon, S.; Cha, M.y Joo, J. (2017). Fashion Conversation Data on Instagram. Recuperado de: https://arxiv.org/abs/1704.04137 [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018].
Hanna, E., Fettweis, X. y Hall, R. J. (2018). Brief communication: Recent changes in summer Greenland blocking captured by none of the CMIP5 models. The Cyrosphere, 12, 3287–3292. doi: 10.5194/tc-12-3287-2018
Hawkins, R.A. (2010). Boycotts, buycotts and consumer activism in a global context: An overview. Management & Organizational History, 5(2), 123-143. Doi: 10.1177/1744935910361644
Hierro, L. (2018). El mundo perdió 15,8 millones de hectáreas de bosque tropical en 2017: el doble del tamaño de Andalucía. El País (27 de junio de 2018). Recuperado de: https://elpais.com/elpais/2018/06/26/planeta_futuro/1530040354_449192.html [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Hoffmann, S.; Balderjahn, I.; Seegebarth, B. Mai, R. Peyer, M. (2018). Under Which Conditions Are Consumers Ready to Boycott or Buycott? The Roles of Hedonism and Simplicity. Ecological Economics, 147 (2018), 167–178. doi: 10.1016/j.ecolecon.2018.01.004
Ismail, A.R. y Spinelli, G. (2012). Effects of brand love, personality and image on word of mouth: The case of fashion brands among young consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 16(4), pp. 386-398. Doi: 10.1108/13612021211265791
Jung, S. y Jin, B. (2014). A theoretical investigation of slow fashion: sustainable future of the apparel industry. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38, 10–519. doi: 10.1111/ijcs.12127
Jung, S. y Jin, B. (2016). Sustainable Development of Slow Fashion Businesses: Customer Value Approach. Sustainability, 8(540), 1-15. doi: 10.3390/su8060540
Krippendorff, K. (2009). Metodología de análisis de contenido. Teoría y práctica. Barcelona: Paidós Comunicación.
Kriwy , P. y Mecking, R.A. (2011). Health and environmental consciousness, costs of behaviour and the purchase of organic food. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 36(1), 30-37. doi: 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2011.01004.x
Laufer, W.S. (2003). Social Accountability and Corporate Greenwashing. Journal of Business Ethics, 43, 253–261.
Manrai, A.K. (2018). New research on Environmentally Responsible Consumption Behavior and Green Business Strategies. Journal of Global Marketing, 31(4), 229-230.
Martínez García de Leazniz, P. Herrero Cresco, Á. y Gómez López, R. (2017). Customer responses to environmentally certified hotels: the moderating effect of environmental consciousness on the formation of behavioral intentions. Journal of Sustainable Tourism, 26(7), 1160-1177. doi: 10.1080/09669582.2017.1349775
Moda impacto positivo (s.f.). Directorio de moda sostenible. Moda impacto positivo. Recuperado de: https://modaimpactopositivo.com/slowfashion-marcas-complementos-ropa-ecologica-online/ [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Mills, J.S.; Musto, S.; Williams, L. y Tiggemann, M. (2018). "Selfie" harm: Effects on mood and body image in young women. Body Image, 27, 86-92. Doi: 10.1016/j.bodyim.2018.08.007
Morgan, L.R. y Birtwistle, G. (2009). An investigation of young fashion consumers' disposal habits. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 33(2), 190–198. doi: 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2009.00756.x
Pookulangara, S, y Shephard, A. (2013). Slow fashion movement: Understanding consumer perceptions —An exploratory study. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 20, 200-206. Doi: /10.1016/j.jretconser.2012.12.002
Ramos-Serrano, M. y Jiménez-Marín, G. (2014). Blogs y Moda: cuando los usuarios crean las tendencias. En: D. Fernández Quijada y M. Ramos-Serrano, Tecnologías de la persuasión: uso de las TIC en publicidad y relaciones públicas (pp. 131-143). Barcelona: UOC.
Ramos-Serrano, M. y Martínez-García, A. (2016). Personal style bloggers: the most popular visual composition principles and themes on Instagram. Observatorio (OBS*) Journal, 10(2), 89-109. Doi: 1646-5954/ERC123483/2016
SOMO (2011). Captured by Cotton. Exploited Dalit girls produce garments in India for European and US markets [online]. Recuperado de: https://www.somo.nl/captured-by-cotton/ [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
Å tefko, R. y Steffek, V. (2018). Key Issues in Slow Fashion: Current Challenges and Future Perspectives. Sustainability, 10(2270), 1-11. doi: 10.3390/su10072270
Trischler, H. (2016). The Anthropocene: A Challenge for the History of Science, Technology, and the Environment. NTM International Journal of History and Ethics of Natural Sciences, Technology and Medicine, 24 (3), 309-335. doi: 10.1007/s00048-016-0146-3
Watson, M.Z. y Yan, R.N. (2013). An exploratory study of the decision processes of fast versus slow fashion consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 17(2),141-159. doi: 10.1108/JFMM-02-2011-0045
We Are Social (2018). Digital in 2018: World's Internet users pass the 4 billion mark. We Are Social (30 de enero de 2018). Recuperado de: https://wearesocial.com/blog/2018/01/global-digital-report-2018 [consultado el 1 de noviembre de 2018]
World Economic Forum –WEF- (2016). The New Plastics Economy Rethinking the future of plastics. Recuperado de: http://www3.weforum.org/docs/WEF_The_New_Plastics_Economy.pdf [consultado del 1 de noviembre de 2018].
Zalasiewicz, J. et al. (2017). The Working Group on the Anthropocene: Summary of evidence and interim recommendations. Anthropocene, 19, 55-60. doi: 10.1016/j.ancene.2017.09.001
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